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I just tear them apart and clean everything with brake parts cleaner and slap it back together. unless a gasket tears I dont worry about it. it doesnt have to "match" exactly, not rocket science, just a tiller engine.Īs for the carb rebuild. I'd clean it out with some brake parts cleaner.Īs to the missing screw, just take the one you have and match it at lowes. that plate the hose is running to on the left in this pic is the valve housing and is the pcv. Read through the thread completely before posting. Just check the oil more often if your running with a lower level and no hill side use.Ī re-ring and new valve guides with new valves would be the best but you likely could find a brand new 'will fit' engine for about the same money unless you can do it your self. If the oil throw off is less, top it up an ounce at a time to see where the limit is. Instead of using the 21oz of oil just put in 18 for your first try to see if it still is throwing it at you. Once you do those checks and know more, I would put it back together and give the new breather and the 30 oil a try. The splash lube system in the crankcase just overwhelms it.Ĭhanging the breather body and using straight 30 oil may be the best you can do without boring and installing a bushing to resize the hole. That governer shaft where the oil is leaking might be worn and no amount of other fixes may help. check the verticle marks and possible rough areas with your fingernail. The cylinder markings don't look too bad. What does the cylinder head look like for carbon buildup? The cylinder and valves sure dont show an oil burner. Set the crank position so each of the valves is wide open and wiggle the valve parallel to and perpendicular to the crankshaft to check for relative wear in the valve guides. That is the intake valve that is so messed. I do it all the time on the Briggs from my lawn mower. Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh